How to Summit Huayna Potosí in Bolivia
The Huayna Potosí is regarded as the easiest mountain to summit over 6000 meters altitude. This guide is providing you with all the information you need to summit the Huayna Potosí in Bolivia.
Contents
Basic Information About Huayna Potosí
The Mountain Huayna Potosí is located in Bolivia about 25 km north of the city of La Paz and can be seen from the city center. Huayna Potosí is part of the Cordillera Real Mountain Range and is 6088 meters high. The prominence of Huayna Potosí is 1352 meters.
The name of Huayna Potosí is in the Aymara language, which is the mothertongue of the native people living in this area, and means “Young Mountain”.
Every year thousands of tourists attempt the summit of the Huayna Potosí and thus making it the most visited mountain near La Paz in Bolivia.
From the peak of the Huayna Potosí, there are stunning views of the Cordillera Real mountain range with its snow-capped mountains, ice-blue glaciers, the waters of Lake Titikaka and the city of La Paz.
Huayna Potosí is often considered the easiest climb over 6000 meters. However, it should not be underestimated. Besides being able to climb up to the summit of Huayna Potosí without any prior knowledge of technical climbs, you need to be in perfect physical conditions to be able to summit the Huayna Potosí together with a trained guide.
Where to Book Your Tour to Huayna Potosí
The best way to book your trip to Huayna Potosí is directly in La Paz in Bolivia, as you will get the best prices when you book it directly with the travel agencies and you can check out the gear that they will be providing you.
South Treks is the company I booked my three-day tour with and I had a really good experience with them. Because of that, I can truly recommend this company.
The price for the three-day tour including the transport from the office to the base camp and back, all the gear, accommodation and all meals is about 900 Bolivianos ($130 USD). In addition to that, you have to pay an entrance fee to the Huayna Potosí of 50 Bolivianos (2022).
What to Pack For The Summit of Huayna Potosí
To attempt the climb up to Huayna Potosí you need to be well prepared, not just physically but also with the things you are going to pack. The most important advice is to pack light as you have to carry all your stuff from the base camp to the high camp and also back on the last day.
Things you need to pack:
- 60-70 Liter Backpack *
- Small daypack (25 Liter)
- Sleeping Bag (rated at -10°C) *
- Trekking Shoes
- Thick Down Jacket *
- Thin Down Jacket *
- Fleece
- Thick Hiking Pants *
- Buff
- Thin Trekking Pants
- 2 Underwear
- 2 T-Shirts (preferably Merino)
- 3 pairs of Socks (2 thick hiking socks)
- Helmet *
- Plastic Boots *
- Crampons *
- Ice Axe *
- Climbing Harness *
- Gaiters *
- Walking Sticks *
- Thick Gloves *
- Thin Gloves
- Sun Hat
- Sun Glasses
- Sunscreen SPF 50
- Headlamp *
- Toilet paper
- Toothbrush and Toothpaste
- Deodorant
- Snacks for the summit attempt
- 2 liters of water
- Personal medication
- Altitude Sickness medication
- Paracetamol
- Camera
- Charger and Powerbank
- Books or movies to entertain you in your free time
Top Tip: If you don’t have all of the things listed above, you can rent the things marked with an * at the travel agency where you booked your tour.
Best Season to Summit Huayna Potosí
The best season to attempt the summit to the Huayna Potosí is from April to November as it rains less and the skies are mostly clear. Despite that, during this time, the days are shorter and the temperatures can drop down to -20°C.
Between December and March, the temperatures are more comfortable but the winds are stronger and it rains a lot.
The Perfect 3 Day Itinerary to Summit Huayna Potosí
The attempt to the summit of Huayna Potosí is usually done within a three-day trip from La Paz. However, some people attempt the summit within two days. This is only advised for advanced mountain climbers that are used to the altitude.
In the following, you can find a description of the three-day Itinerary to Summit Huayna Potosí.
Day 1
09:30 a.m.: Meeting at the office of the travel agency. Here you will try on the gear that you will need. Be extremely careful that you test the gear thoroughly as you won’t be able to change your gear as soon as you arrive at the Base Camp of Huayna Potosí.
10:00 a.m.: Drive in a mini-van from La Paz to the Base Camp. After leaving La Paz through El Alto you will soon find yourself on a dirt road towards Huayna Potosí. After around 1,5 to 2 hours you will arrive at the Base Camp at around 4800 meters.
11:30 a.m.: Arriving at the Base Camp. The Camps around Huayna Potosí don’t offer much comfort. There are no showers or warm water in any way, but the camps will keep you warm at night and in the base camp you will even have electricity.
12:00 p.m.: Lunch. The Lunch itself is nothing outstanding. A little bit of fried chicken, some slices of tomato and loads of plain rice. It is nothing that will satisfy you, but it will give you enough energy for the program of the day. Hot water and different kind of teas, coffee and chocolate powder will be provided so you stay hydrated. Other drinks can be bought in the camp as well.
Top Tip: Drinking hot coca tea helps a lot to prevent any symptoms of altitude sickness, which is something you definitely have to be prepared for at this altitude.
01:00 p.m.: After lunch, you will put on your gear and head out to the nearby glacier. The hike to the glacier will take about 45 minutes and other than your gear, some water and a camera you won’t need anything. Once you arrive at the glacier, it’s time to put on your crampons and practice your first steps on the ice. As soon as you feel confident enough your guide will take you up to an ice wall where you can practice climbing up the ice wall with your crampons and ice axes. After your training and taking some nice pictures, you will return to the base camp.
04:00 p.m.: Free time at the camp. Grab yourself a book or watch a movie and just enjoy the solitude in front of the mountain away from the noise of the city.
05:30 p.m.: Dinner. The dinner itself is not much more than a hot soup followed by some fried beef and plain pasta. Luckily you will have crackers as well with different kinds of spreads.
7:30 p.m.: It’s time for bed. Wrap yourself up in your sleeping bag and try to have an early night. Maybe you like to listen to music, read a book or watch a movie before falling asleep.
Day 2
08:30 a.m.: The next morning you will have breakfast. The breakfast will provide you with enough nutrition for the day. You will be served a bowl of fruit and some bread rolls with some fried eggs. Also, there is hot water to prepare a hot beverage of your choice.
11:00 a.m.: Roll up your sleeping bag and pack all your stuff. But be prepared as you have to fit all your technical gear such as your helmet, ice axe, crampons, climbing harness and plastic boots have to fit in your bag as well. Now you will quickly realize why it is so important to pack light as your back quickly weighs over 25 kg.
12:00 p.m.: Lunch. You will have some similar kind of lunch as the day before except that this time you will have soup as well.
01:00 p.m.: Start to hike up with all your stuff from the Base Camp at around 4800 meters to the High Camp at around 5270 meters. This hike is only 2.6 km long but takes almost 3 hours as it is extremely steep and very challenging with all the gear loaded up into your bag. By the time you arrive at the High Camp, your legs will be weak and you need some time to recover in the sun from this hike.
04:00 p.m.: You will arrive at the High Camp at around 5270 meters. Find your bed and try to adjust the altitude. At this camp, you will find even less comfort than in the Base Camp. A water-flushed toilet will be replaced by a hole in the ground and there won’t be any electricity.
05:30 p.m.: Dinner. Your dinner will be prepared by your guides on a simple gas stove. Nevertheless, you will need all the food you can get. You will enjoy a hot vegetable soup and some pasta with beef.
06:00 p.m.: After your dinner, you will be introduced to your personal guide and you will have your briefing for your summit attempt during the upcoming night.
06:15 p.m.: After the briefing, you will have about an hour to prepare all your gear and your daypack for the next morning. Be really careful with what you are going to back so you won’t forget anything (especially water and snacks, sunglasses and sunscreen).
07:00 p.m.: After you prepared everything you need to go to bed to get at least a few hours of sleep and to be full of energy when you wake up
11:00 p.m.: Your alarm is ringing and you wake up after only 4 hours of sleep. Get dressed and put on 2 pairs of thick hiking socks, your plastic boots, two pairs of trousers, a fleece, a thick down jacket and a buff. Have a light and quick breakfast as it is hard the attempt the summit with a full stomach. After your breakfast put on your gear and get ready to start the climb.
Day 3
12:00 a.m.: As the High Camp is right next to the ice zone of the glacier you won’t have to walk far until you have to put on your crampons and start your ascent to the top of Huayna Potosí. You will have one guide for you and your partner. He will attach you to his rope with a carabiner, which will be your only safety during the climb. As hiking and climbing at this altitude are very tiring and exhausting you will have a break around every 20 minutes. But the goal is to keep a steady and slow pace as long pauses will get you out of your rhythm. You will hike over deep glacier crevasses, climb up vertical ice walls and balance the narrow crest of the mountain.
05:30 a.m.: After an intense climb up to the peak of the mountain you will arrive at the summit of Huayna Potosí at 6088 meters to see the sunrise. This is one of the most beautiful sights you will have up on this mountain and will be something you will never forget.
06:00 a.m.: After enjoying the view for about half an hour you will start climbing back down the mountain. This is equally exhausting as the ascent to the top. Instead of climbing up the walls, you can abseil yourself which is a lot of fun and way faster.
09:00 a.m.: After about 3 hours you will arrive completely exhausted at the High Camp. But it’s not over yet. Here you have one hour to get your things ready, change your clothes and pack your backpack for the return to the Base Camp.
10:00 a.m.: As soon as you have packed your things, you will start hiking down to the Base Camp. And don’t forget that after the summit of Huayna Potosí, your heavy backpack might feel even heavier than before.
11:30 a.m.: You finally made it back to the Base Camp. Here you will be welcomed with a delicious Salteña and some drinks.
12:00 p.m.: After a little snack you will put your backpack into the Mini-Van that awaits you to take you back to La Paz.
02:30 p.m.: In the afternoon you will be arriving at the office of the travel agency in La Paz. Here you will return your rented equipment, say goodbye to your new friends and head back to your hostel.
Conclusion
Overall the summit of Huayna Potosí is a fantastic experience that you will never forget. However, don’t be fooled by the fact that it might be one of the easiest mountains to climb over 6000 meters. It is a very hard climb up and you have to be well-trained before you attempt to summit this mountain. Many people won’t even make it up to the top, which isn’t a shame at all. This is a once-in-a-lifetime challenge for many of us and therefore shouldn’t be underestimated. That being said, my congratulations to all that attempted to summit Huayna Potosí in Bolivia.
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